Gobi Trip
On the morning of Tuesday, 29 August we set off from Ulaanbaatar on our 10-day trip to the Gobi (desert) in southern Mongolia and then onto central Mongolia. Our group consisted of Marc and Chantal from Switzerland, Sui from California, Sylvia from Taiwan, our driver, Jigmai (M), and our guide/translator/cook, Hogie (F). 95% of the roads in Mongolia are not paved and are actually quite horrible. It takes a long time to cover short distances and 90% of cars break down on trips like this. Fortunately our driver was quite a good mechanic and was able to fix the Russian 4x4 van without any problem. The total length of our trip was 2300 km. I should also mention that were basically no toilets the entire trip which is actually quite liberating.
Day 1 (Tuesday, 29 August) - I saw more eagles on this drive than I've ever seen in my life. They were just sitting on the ground as we drove by and then they would fly off. In some places we would see one every hunderd meters. They were huge and extremely numerous. I couldn't get use to it. We stopped for lunch at the base of a beautiful mountain and hiked around there for a bit. Then we stopped by the ruins of old monestery situated in a tiny valley oasis. It was a really special spot in the middle of the desert. It was fairly hot this day. We stayed in a ger (Mongolian nomadic yurt) that evening. Most of the gers we stayed in were not 'family gers' but gers made for tourists and locals alike to spend the night. It was this night that we got our first taste of Hogie's cooking.... delicious!!
Day 2 (Wednesday, 30 August) - We drove to the provincial capital town of Mandalgovi (I think) this day and stayed in a ger that were part of a hotel. We didn't stop to see anything in particalur on the drive there but of course the scenery continued to be extremely beautiful. In fact the scenery was so beautiful the entire trip that I didn't crack open my book once despite 6-8 hours of driving per day! We had hot showers and checked out a little market that afternoon.
Day 3 (Thursday, 31 August) - This day we actually got into the heart of the Gobi. We first stopped at the 'ice canyon' which is quite sadly the remains of a glacier that is now not much larger than a bus in total mass. The ice canyon is actually a neat, deep, narrow canyon in its own right though. Then that evening on the drive to our ger camp we got our first glimpse of the famous Gobi sand dunes. Sand dunes only cover 3% of the Gobi so its not a desert of infinite sand dunes like say the Sahara. It was so beautiful. That evening we hiked up to the top of the dunes (~600 feet, the base of which was quite a ways from our ger) to watch a spectacular sunset. Hiking up sand dunes is about the hardest form of ascending a 'mountain' on your feet that I can think of!! The dunes were quite steep, pushing 45° in the last stretch. Its strange the dunes can be so steep. The dunes were made of the silkiest, purest, softest sand I've ever seen.
Day 4 (Friday, 1 September) - This morning we went camel riding. I was hesitant to ride the camels as I didn't like the way they stuck a stick through the camels nose and tied a rope to it for the reins. But the camels looked happy enough I guess so I hoped on. It was actually more fun than I thought it would be and I really enjoyed it. Camels are neat animals. As soon as we got off the camels they let them go and didn't keep them tied up or anything. That afternoon I took a nap and then went for a hike in the late afternoon. I walked alone along the base of the sand dunes. The Gobi is a really special place, so big and empty. The sand was cool to the touch despite the hot morning. After dinner the five of us hiked up to the top of the sand dunes in the dark. That was a neat experience and because of the moon we didn't really need lights. We sat on the top of the dunes for several hours watching the moon set and the stars and soaking up the atmosphere. I've never been in a place that felt so big, vast, and empty. So many stars.... That night was definitely the highlight of the trip for me. On the hike down the sand dunes 'sang' for us. This is a humming sound the dunes make as sand slides down the dunes. It was like a vibrating feeling.
Day 5 (Saturday, 2 September) - This day we sadly left the sand dunes of the Gobi and drove to the 'Flaming Cliffs'. The red sandstone (more like 'sand mud') there wasn't really 'flaming' though as it was overcast this day. We hiked around this little area where lots of dinosaur bones have been discovered. We saw some more dinosaur bones still embedded in the sandstone. And then with a bit of digging ourselves found some more dinosaur bones. It was pretty strange to be excavating dinosaurs bones by your hands in the Gobi! I don't think you'd be able to do that in any other place in the world. Then we drove further to our ger camp and we went for a short hike through the saxual trees/forest. This is just a small 'desert forest' consisting of small trees.
Day 6 (Sunday, 3 September) - This day we continued driving north out of the Gobi. We stopped at the ruins of two monasteries (Ongiin Khiid monastery) set in the middle of a shallow valley. It was beautiful and one of the temples was recently rebuilt and we briefly listened to a monk chant there before continueing our drive. It was on this day that I suspected I may have some poison ivy as the 4 places I had insect bites were now swelling, red, and itching. This afternoon was the second highlight of the trip. We stayed in a true family ger. We drove up to a set of 2 gers and Hogie asked if we could stay with them. Of course they accepted us. As this family lived in the middle of nowhere, and only had sheep and goats, they had to make the most of what they had. We were first invited into one of the gers where we would sleep and offered two forms of goat cheese. One was absolutely horrible and nearly made me throw up. We all stuck the cheese in our pockets when the hosts weren't looking to later throw it away. Then we went to the next ger where they were making vodka from fremeting goat (or sheep) yogurt. I was given a large cup of warm, weak, goat-smelling vodka that was horrible but drinkable. Then we where given a cup of the warm, goat yogurt drink. That was just about as horrible as the cheese and we couldn't finish it. Then we went outside and saw one of the men tying up some goats all in a line. I couldn't figure out why until 2 women came out with buckets and started milking the goats. The little 1.5 year old boy kept us all entertained too. Since there are no trees around they have to burn animal dung for fuel. So the stoves were all fueled with dry dung. It didn't really give off an odor though. What a special experience that evening was.
Day 7 (Monday, 4 September) - This day we drove to the old Mongolian capital city of Kharkhorin and stayed in a ger in the city. My poison ivy was getting worse so I was happy to have a hot shower here. That evening after dinner we went to a little bar. Between the five of us we had 3 beers, a half liter bottle of vodka (didn't finish), 3 cokes, and 2 energy drinks. The total bill was less than $9!!
Day 8 (Tuesday, 5 September) - This day Sui and Sylvia left to go back to UB. My poison ivy was worse now and I was debating whether to go back with them. Marc and Chantal said that if I stayed on and it got worse that we would all cut the trip short by one day, so that allowed me to continue with them. We went to the oldest monastery in Mongolia this morning called Erdene Zuu Khiid but I was so preoccupied with my swollen arm that I really couldn't fully enjoy it. Then after lunch we drove up into the mountains to a waterfall. It was a really pretty place with some proper forests on the north sides of the mountains. Aside from a short walk down to the waterfall I didn't leave the ger that whole day.
Day 9 (Wednesday, 6 September) - This morning we woke up to snow. I was happy it was colder and snowing. Our itenerary had us horseback riding this morning but my arm was more swollen and I had a little poison ivy on my face, so we decided to head back this day and cut the trip a day short. I felt bad about making the others go back early but they said it was no big deal. But I really would have wanted to stay. It was a long drive back to UB.
I got back to the guesthouse and had a proper shower that evening. I think coming back was the right choice. I decided that if my arm was worse the following morning that I would go to the hospital.
During this trip we saw the following animals (at least these are the big ones we saw): more eagles than I've ever seen in my life; tons of semi-stray dogs; an uncountable number and varitey of cows, goats, sheep, and horses; lots and lots of camels in the Gobi; yaks in the central; storks, cranes, and other smaller birds; lots of gopher-type animals. Unfortunately I didn't see any ibex or gazelles.
Day 1 (Tuesday, 29 August) - I saw more eagles on this drive than I've ever seen in my life. They were just sitting on the ground as we drove by and then they would fly off. In some places we would see one every hunderd meters. They were huge and extremely numerous. I couldn't get use to it. We stopped for lunch at the base of a beautiful mountain and hiked around there for a bit. Then we stopped by the ruins of old monestery situated in a tiny valley oasis. It was a really special spot in the middle of the desert. It was fairly hot this day. We stayed in a ger (Mongolian nomadic yurt) that evening. Most of the gers we stayed in were not 'family gers' but gers made for tourists and locals alike to spend the night. It was this night that we got our first taste of Hogie's cooking.... delicious!!
Day 2 (Wednesday, 30 August) - We drove to the provincial capital town of Mandalgovi (I think) this day and stayed in a ger that were part of a hotel. We didn't stop to see anything in particalur on the drive there but of course the scenery continued to be extremely beautiful. In fact the scenery was so beautiful the entire trip that I didn't crack open my book once despite 6-8 hours of driving per day! We had hot showers and checked out a little market that afternoon.
Day 3 (Thursday, 31 August) - This day we actually got into the heart of the Gobi. We first stopped at the 'ice canyon' which is quite sadly the remains of a glacier that is now not much larger than a bus in total mass. The ice canyon is actually a neat, deep, narrow canyon in its own right though. Then that evening on the drive to our ger camp we got our first glimpse of the famous Gobi sand dunes. Sand dunes only cover 3% of the Gobi so its not a desert of infinite sand dunes like say the Sahara. It was so beautiful. That evening we hiked up to the top of the dunes (~600 feet, the base of which was quite a ways from our ger) to watch a spectacular sunset. Hiking up sand dunes is about the hardest form of ascending a 'mountain' on your feet that I can think of!! The dunes were quite steep, pushing 45° in the last stretch. Its strange the dunes can be so steep. The dunes were made of the silkiest, purest, softest sand I've ever seen.
Day 4 (Friday, 1 September) - This morning we went camel riding. I was hesitant to ride the camels as I didn't like the way they stuck a stick through the camels nose and tied a rope to it for the reins. But the camels looked happy enough I guess so I hoped on. It was actually more fun than I thought it would be and I really enjoyed it. Camels are neat animals. As soon as we got off the camels they let them go and didn't keep them tied up or anything. That afternoon I took a nap and then went for a hike in the late afternoon. I walked alone along the base of the sand dunes. The Gobi is a really special place, so big and empty. The sand was cool to the touch despite the hot morning. After dinner the five of us hiked up to the top of the sand dunes in the dark. That was a neat experience and because of the moon we didn't really need lights. We sat on the top of the dunes for several hours watching the moon set and the stars and soaking up the atmosphere. I've never been in a place that felt so big, vast, and empty. So many stars.... That night was definitely the highlight of the trip for me. On the hike down the sand dunes 'sang' for us. This is a humming sound the dunes make as sand slides down the dunes. It was like a vibrating feeling.
Day 5 (Saturday, 2 September) - This day we sadly left the sand dunes of the Gobi and drove to the 'Flaming Cliffs'. The red sandstone (more like 'sand mud') there wasn't really 'flaming' though as it was overcast this day. We hiked around this little area where lots of dinosaur bones have been discovered. We saw some more dinosaur bones still embedded in the sandstone. And then with a bit of digging ourselves found some more dinosaur bones. It was pretty strange to be excavating dinosaurs bones by your hands in the Gobi! I don't think you'd be able to do that in any other place in the world. Then we drove further to our ger camp and we went for a short hike through the saxual trees/forest. This is just a small 'desert forest' consisting of small trees.
Day 6 (Sunday, 3 September) - This day we continued driving north out of the Gobi. We stopped at the ruins of two monasteries (Ongiin Khiid monastery) set in the middle of a shallow valley. It was beautiful and one of the temples was recently rebuilt and we briefly listened to a monk chant there before continueing our drive. It was on this day that I suspected I may have some poison ivy as the 4 places I had insect bites were now swelling, red, and itching. This afternoon was the second highlight of the trip. We stayed in a true family ger. We drove up to a set of 2 gers and Hogie asked if we could stay with them. Of course they accepted us. As this family lived in the middle of nowhere, and only had sheep and goats, they had to make the most of what they had. We were first invited into one of the gers where we would sleep and offered two forms of goat cheese. One was absolutely horrible and nearly made me throw up. We all stuck the cheese in our pockets when the hosts weren't looking to later throw it away. Then we went to the next ger where they were making vodka from fremeting goat (or sheep) yogurt. I was given a large cup of warm, weak, goat-smelling vodka that was horrible but drinkable. Then we where given a cup of the warm, goat yogurt drink. That was just about as horrible as the cheese and we couldn't finish it. Then we went outside and saw one of the men tying up some goats all in a line. I couldn't figure out why until 2 women came out with buckets and started milking the goats. The little 1.5 year old boy kept us all entertained too. Since there are no trees around they have to burn animal dung for fuel. So the stoves were all fueled with dry dung. It didn't really give off an odor though. What a special experience that evening was.
Day 7 (Monday, 4 September) - This day we drove to the old Mongolian capital city of Kharkhorin and stayed in a ger in the city. My poison ivy was getting worse so I was happy to have a hot shower here. That evening after dinner we went to a little bar. Between the five of us we had 3 beers, a half liter bottle of vodka (didn't finish), 3 cokes, and 2 energy drinks. The total bill was less than $9!!
Day 8 (Tuesday, 5 September) - This day Sui and Sylvia left to go back to UB. My poison ivy was worse now and I was debating whether to go back with them. Marc and Chantal said that if I stayed on and it got worse that we would all cut the trip short by one day, so that allowed me to continue with them. We went to the oldest monastery in Mongolia this morning called Erdene Zuu Khiid but I was so preoccupied with my swollen arm that I really couldn't fully enjoy it. Then after lunch we drove up into the mountains to a waterfall. It was a really pretty place with some proper forests on the north sides of the mountains. Aside from a short walk down to the waterfall I didn't leave the ger that whole day.
Day 9 (Wednesday, 6 September) - This morning we woke up to snow. I was happy it was colder and snowing. Our itenerary had us horseback riding this morning but my arm was more swollen and I had a little poison ivy on my face, so we decided to head back this day and cut the trip a day short. I felt bad about making the others go back early but they said it was no big deal. But I really would have wanted to stay. It was a long drive back to UB.
I got back to the guesthouse and had a proper shower that evening. I think coming back was the right choice. I decided that if my arm was worse the following morning that I would go to the hospital.
During this trip we saw the following animals (at least these are the big ones we saw): more eagles than I've ever seen in my life; tons of semi-stray dogs; an uncountable number and varitey of cows, goats, sheep, and horses; lots and lots of camels in the Gobi; yaks in the central; storks, cranes, and other smaller birds; lots of gopher-type animals. Unfortunately I didn't see any ibex or gazelles.
posted by Dustin at 6:14 PM
1 Comments:
Dustin-
I sympathize with your poison ivy. I used to get it every year when I was a teenager in Texas (complete with cortizone shots and weeks of misery). Fortunately, since I've been in the NW, I haven't been infected. Glad it went away quickly.
Alan
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