Trans-Siberian Railway - Part 1, Moscow to Novosibirsk
So it finally began. Friday (11 August) night I walked from my hostel to 1 of the 9 Moscow train stations where my Trans-Siberian journey would begin. The station was unexpectedly crowded for being so late in the evening, ~10:30 pm. My train arrived about 15 minutes before it was scheduled to depart. The waiting hordes jammed slowly onto the train. I was the first one in my cabin. This train was nothing like my train from St. Petersburg to Moscow. This one was a simple, bare-bones comparment, but clean. I waiting anxiously for my fellow cabin mates to arrive, wondering who I would spend the next few days in very close confines with. First to arrive were 2 typical looking, middle-aged, Russian men who spoke not a word of English. Eventually we made introductions and I got the point across that I spoke no Russian. They laughed. Their names were Ivan and Sergey; hows that for typical Russian! Soon after, Dima, our last cabin mate, arrived. He also spoke no english. He was younger and had many friends board the train with him that later saw him off across the threshold of the window. I later found out (through pictures) that Dima was in the Russian army, and I assumed those were some of his army buddies seeing him off. As we set off just before 11 pm that Friday night on our 55-hour, 3-night, 2-day, 3343 km journey to Novosibirsk, Russia in western Siberia everyone in my cabin was quiet and sober. Soon enough that would all change.
Not long after leaving Moscow's Yaroslavsky train station, the mood in the cabin lightened and pictures and souvenirs were passed around to break the ice. First I was offered a beer and shortly afterwards food by the 2 Russian men. I gladly accepted having heard stories about the generosity of Russians and feeling a little bad for not bringing anything to share in return. Then the 'kanyak' came out, Russian brandy. Dima's offering to the cabin. I was surprised it wasn't vodka, after all the stories I've heard. As a man, it is considered extremely strange and impolite to refuse offerings of liquor. So not wanting to offend so early in my journey, I accepted. We drank and mimed our way across the language barrier lightening the mood substantially before we all went to sleep at the reasonable hour of 12:30 am. I was completely sober though, only accepting a little brandy with each toast. The others were probably also completely sober though even after drinking much more than me!
The next morning (Saturday, 12 August) I was the first in my cabin to wake. It was after 10 am. I went for breakfast in the restaurant car, which was another interesting 'conversation', and when I returned the 2 middle aged Russian men were drinking. It was at this point that I became a little concerned about the rest of the journey in this cabin. I had my first shot before 12 noon and knew I couldn't keep up at this pace. They eagerly offered me more food and drink, so when someone came around selling beer (and obviously these 2 Russian men wouldn't turn down the chance) I bought the next 2 rounds, having nothing else to share. I don't think I drank a single one of those beers though.
Some time that afternoon everyone took a nap. Then more drinking and eating that evening. I don't think I drank that round. During this course of drinks, one of the 2 Russian men, completely drunk by now, knocked an entire table of full beer cans on me. He was too drunk to be apologetic. Then around 8 pm everyone passed out for the night (or so I thought). I read in peace, surprised by how easy I had gotten off that evening all things considered. I fell asleep a couple hours later.
Then sometime around 1 am I was awoke to find myself in the middle of a party. The bottom bunk was not the place to be in this cabin. The 2 Russian men were wide awake, loud, drunk, and drinking heavily. There being not much room in the cabin they comfortably set on my bed as I tired to ignore all the activity and sleep. Throughout all this non-sense the other younger Russian guy, Dima, was able to ignore all this simply listening to his music and blocking it all out. I, on the other hand, couldn't block it out so easily. Eventually, several hours later, these 2 got drunk enough to pass out although one had to be lifted up to his bunk by his buddy. It was quite the scene, especially when his buddy slammed the heavy cabin door shut with his foot still hanging off the bed into the threshold. Ouch! but he was too drunk to feel much pain I think.
The following morning (Sunday, 13 August), or should I say "later that morning", something had to give. I couldn't take another day and night of this monkey business. I walked the entire length of the train asking all the Provodnitsas (carriage attendent) from each carriage if I could change beds. No one understood my request though as no one spoke english. I sat in the restaurant car for a while reading, wondering why I had been so anxious to start my train journey as this is not what I had envisioned. I made my way back to my cabin to find everyone passed out. Nevertheless I went to my Provodnik (male carriage attendent) and tried to ask again. Amazingly this time he found a bed in another cabin for me and I happily moved in. This cabin was great. Again the people didn't speak english but they were quiet, considerate, and sober. I spent the rest of the afternoon reading and just being happy for my improved situation.
Early the following morning (Monday, 14 August) the Provodnik awoke me. We were shortly arriving in Novosibirsk, my destination. I saw the guys from my previous cabin that morning, completely stumbling drunk. I was extremely happy not to have been a part of those festivities again. It was still dark but warm when I got off the train in Novosibirsk, the capital of Siberia.
Not long after leaving Moscow's Yaroslavsky train station, the mood in the cabin lightened and pictures and souvenirs were passed around to break the ice. First I was offered a beer and shortly afterwards food by the 2 Russian men. I gladly accepted having heard stories about the generosity of Russians and feeling a little bad for not bringing anything to share in return. Then the 'kanyak' came out, Russian brandy. Dima's offering to the cabin. I was surprised it wasn't vodka, after all the stories I've heard. As a man, it is considered extremely strange and impolite to refuse offerings of liquor. So not wanting to offend so early in my journey, I accepted. We drank and mimed our way across the language barrier lightening the mood substantially before we all went to sleep at the reasonable hour of 12:30 am. I was completely sober though, only accepting a little brandy with each toast. The others were probably also completely sober though even after drinking much more than me!
The next morning (Saturday, 12 August) I was the first in my cabin to wake. It was after 10 am. I went for breakfast in the restaurant car, which was another interesting 'conversation', and when I returned the 2 middle aged Russian men were drinking. It was at this point that I became a little concerned about the rest of the journey in this cabin. I had my first shot before 12 noon and knew I couldn't keep up at this pace. They eagerly offered me more food and drink, so when someone came around selling beer (and obviously these 2 Russian men wouldn't turn down the chance) I bought the next 2 rounds, having nothing else to share. I don't think I drank a single one of those beers though.
Some time that afternoon everyone took a nap. Then more drinking and eating that evening. I don't think I drank that round. During this course of drinks, one of the 2 Russian men, completely drunk by now, knocked an entire table of full beer cans on me. He was too drunk to be apologetic. Then around 8 pm everyone passed out for the night (or so I thought). I read in peace, surprised by how easy I had gotten off that evening all things considered. I fell asleep a couple hours later.
Then sometime around 1 am I was awoke to find myself in the middle of a party. The bottom bunk was not the place to be in this cabin. The 2 Russian men were wide awake, loud, drunk, and drinking heavily. There being not much room in the cabin they comfortably set on my bed as I tired to ignore all the activity and sleep. Throughout all this non-sense the other younger Russian guy, Dima, was able to ignore all this simply listening to his music and blocking it all out. I, on the other hand, couldn't block it out so easily. Eventually, several hours later, these 2 got drunk enough to pass out although one had to be lifted up to his bunk by his buddy. It was quite the scene, especially when his buddy slammed the heavy cabin door shut with his foot still hanging off the bed into the threshold. Ouch! but he was too drunk to feel much pain I think.
The following morning (Sunday, 13 August), or should I say "later that morning", something had to give. I couldn't take another day and night of this monkey business. I walked the entire length of the train asking all the Provodnitsas (carriage attendent) from each carriage if I could change beds. No one understood my request though as no one spoke english. I sat in the restaurant car for a while reading, wondering why I had been so anxious to start my train journey as this is not what I had envisioned. I made my way back to my cabin to find everyone passed out. Nevertheless I went to my Provodnik (male carriage attendent) and tried to ask again. Amazingly this time he found a bed in another cabin for me and I happily moved in. This cabin was great. Again the people didn't speak english but they were quiet, considerate, and sober. I spent the rest of the afternoon reading and just being happy for my improved situation.
Early the following morning (Monday, 14 August) the Provodnik awoke me. We were shortly arriving in Novosibirsk, my destination. I saw the guys from my previous cabin that morning, completely stumbling drunk. I was extremely happy not to have been a part of those festivities again. It was still dark but warm when I got off the train in Novosibirsk, the capital of Siberia.
posted by Dustin at 10:34 PM
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