Everest Base Camp trek itinerary

I'm back in Kathmandu again, staying in my old, reliable Sagarmatha Guesthouse right smack in the middle of Thamel. Arrived here yesterday (Thursday, 16 November) afternoon after an 8-hour bus ride from Pokhara. Luckily Annick and Julianna were on the same bus so I had some company. Its so freaking busy here in Thamel/Kathmandu compared to relaxed Pokhara. So many more beggers and touts trying to get your money; and so much more traffic! Its hard to walk down the streets here. I had several 'errands' to do in Kathmandu prior to my hike and I got almost everything done yesterday afternoon. Money, food, map, long underwear, travel agents..... So today I can just 'relax'.

Tomorrow (Saturday, 18 November) morning I fly from Kathmandu to Lukla, Nepal; the standard starting place for the trek to Everest Base Camp (EBC). I'm flying on Yeti Airlines and my flight (# 103) leaves - or is supposed to leave - Kathmandu at 6:30 AM. When I arrive in Lukla I will hike for a few hours to a further village for the night. I don't have a guide or a permit and I've been hearing all different kinds of information on what will happen if I don't have a permit. I'm just going to go there and see what happens. I'm sure I will find a way through some way of another. Another concern I have is having to pay the Maoists more money on this trek. Apparently the Maoists ask for NRs 2500 (~$35) on the Everest Base Camp trek. But there is no way I'm giving them any more money! Now that they are officially a part of the Nepali government they shouldn't be extorting money from tourists any more.

I think it will take me 7 or 8 days to reach the last village before Base Camp called Gorak Shep. From there I will make two side trips. One to the actual Everest Base Camp, where unfortunately you can't even see Everest. The second up Kala Pattar (5545-meters) - a small summit/high point on a ridge of Pumo Ri - where you are supposed to have the best views of Everest. Both of these side trips are extremely popular. Then it will probably take me 3-4 days to hike back out to Lukla.

I fly out of Lukla back to Kathmandu on 3 December departing Lukla (flight # 112) at 7:45 AM, but flights into and out of Lukla are notoriously unreliable and people often get stuck in Lukla for an extra day due to cancelled or delayed flights. The earliest I will be able to email will be 3rd or 4th December. There will be tons of people trekking this route as this is high season so I won't be alone.